The year in travel 2011

31 12 2011

This is my fun post for the year, mentally going back and experiencing once again our year of travel. It is almost cliché to say that travel changes us. While I am in a new destination or even revisiting one of our favorites, I enjoy the sensations, the new smells, sights and mental impressions.

When we visit a bucket list destination, I am always amazed at how different it is to be there compared to my vision of what it would be like. As we are blessed to travel more, even my broader perspective does not prevent me from having too narrow an expectation of new destinations. Almost being on sensory overload in a new destination is one my delights in travel.

I can’t help but visualize the history of a destination. It produces an almost surrealistic experience, living today while visualizing the past. This year while I walked  the streets of the North End of Boston I pictured the lives of hundreds of years of residents while walking through today’s Farmers Market with the seasonal fresh produce and elbow to elbow shoppers. I stood at the main gate in the wall of Old San Juan Puerto Rico, one of the oldest cities in the Hemisphere and visualized  the sailing ships and crush of goods being loaded and off loaded from the ships, while listening to the leaf blower cleaning the walk for today’s tourists.

Travel broadens our perspective, teaching us that we are all more alike than different. I guess I should have know that Panama and Costa Rica were thriving countries where the education system works and the illiteracy rate is in the single digits, unlike our functional illiteracy of 30+%. The number one export of Costa Rica is not bananas, but micro processors. The expansion of the Panama Canal will make Panama a First World country, but it is already a regional banking hub with a skyline that puts most US cities to shame. Does your city have a Trump building?

It always amazes me that the lingering memories of a place are not necessarily the ones that stood out when you were there. I love old forts and I remember the forts of Old San Juan. They have two that are easy walking distance in Old San Juan, along with the iconic Sea Wall with the sentry towers. Along with the beaches, one of the icons of the Caribbean are the stone sentry towers where individual guards stood watch for pirates and invading fleets. I do remember the forts, but mostly I remember experiencing Sunday when families go to fly kites on the lawn outside San Felipe Fort.

Latin cultures value family and friends and the neighborhood plazas are the magnet that collects neighbors. We felt safer walking the streets of Old San Juan at night than we ever have in Main Land cities. (Puerto Rico is part of the United States). Night time is a time for friends, families and neighbors to collect in plazas, to recap the day and enjoy each other’s company. Enjoy the evening in Old San Juan, stop in a local bar and enjoy the ambience.

The food in Old San Juan was world class. From the best ceviche we have ever had  (the combination ceviche plate at Aguaviva)  to the fusion cuisine of Marmalades, the food alone makes us want to return to Puerto Rico for a week long stay. If you are there, be sure to try the regional plantain specialty-tostones. http://www.seepuertorico.com

Our Caribbean cruise was in company with three other cruise ships that had the same itinerary as us, so each port saw us arrive as two of about 9000 cruise visitors for that day. Despite that, in many ports there still seemed to be 10 cab drivers for each cruise passenger. The poverty is not as bad as Jamaica, but it makes me feel blessed that I do not have to try to get someone into my cab or sell tee shirts on a Caribbean island.

My recommendation for Caribbean cruise ports is to plan an activity on the island. We found San Juan the only town worth walking into. I get nervous about being back to the ship on time, so prefer using a tour operator. A good guide will also teach you much about your destination, and give a local’s perspective.

Tour guides in Costa Rica and Panama are trained. It is a profession. The good ones will also speak several languages to set themselves apart from their peers. Costa Rica has a better developed tourist infrastructure, with major operators showcasing the natural reserves that keep the country a premier green destination. http://www.visitcostarica.com  Panama’s premier focus is the canal, but our tour of Panama city was one of my favorite city tours. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so the facades offer some great photo ops.

I would recommend a transit of the Panama Canal as a bucket list activity for even the most jaded traveler. It is an engineering masterpiece and was accomplished with the cutting edge of engineering and technology for the time. It was the first major use of electricity and gave a small company called General Electric it’s start. The canal expansion is scheduled for completion in  2014, at which time larger cruise ships should create more competition. While you can do a half transit of the canal from Fort Lauderdale, only the full transit will give you an idea of the astounding amount of material and construction required to construct the canal.

So you ask how did my travels change me? I have a new and greater world view, recognizing that while I wasn’t paying attention, what I considered Third World Countries have become First World Countries, with governments that still function to provide a better life for the country. I realized that we are all more alike than different, that people in Latin countries still value hospitality and sociability, and that the people you meet are more interesting than any story you may read (another post for later).

I learned that travel can be an addiction, the more you get, the more you want.

Via con Dios this next year





Blue Water Blog Day 12

5 12 2011

Blue Water Blogging-Day 12 At Sea – Get to know your staff
Sunday, 12/4/11

Hi Everyone,

Day 12 finds us once again with a sea day. The relaxation of sea days make them one of our favorites. Sea days will allow you to tell whether you have the temperament to find diversion within the choices of classes, entertainment, reading, relaxing or whether you will succumb to boredom. Most of us savor having our meals prepared, having the time to take an hour walk around the deck, and spend time at the gym, lectures, classes, or just on a balcony or by the pool.

We have reflected that one of the pleasures of our time on board is interacting with the crew and service staff. Staff are selected for their skills in interacting with and serving guests. Agents for the cruise lines work like sports scouts, stealing the best workers from high end resorts in their home countries. Princess has many Philippine workers both as service and technical staff. Their numbers are rounded out by staff from Eastern European countries. On our last Royal Caribbean cruise, we found most of the staff from Jamaica, but since we have not been on every ship in every line, suffice to say staff comes from countries where the hard work compared to the pay is better than opportunities back home.

Staff work a contract that will vary from 6-10 months depending on the line, job, and ship. Since they work 7 days a week during a contract, most take some time off after a contract. The better ones will know where their next contract will take them before the current one ends. Most will move to another ship with each new contract.

We recommend getting to know your staff, since your room steward and most dining staff will remain with you during the cruise. Many have interesting stories. After they have been with the industry for a number of years, their lives become very international. The head chef on a recent cruise was from a small town in Italy and currently calls Mexico home. He enjoys spending his off time with his wife and children, and gardening.

Marty, a waiter from two recent cruises is from the Philippines, and has a fiancé in Hong Kong. We teased him that he would probably be married the next time we saw him. According to one of the waiters on this cruise, he has in fact gotten married. He worked in Vines, the wine bar on the larger Princess ships. A young man on the ship was showing Marty a card trick he just learned, and we all discovered that Marty had worked at a Hard Rock Cafe and knew all the fancy bar moves and card tricks. On crew entertainment night, we discovered he also wrote music and was a very accomplished piano and guitar player. If your cruise has a crew entertainment night, don’t miss it, you will find there is an amazing depth of talent on the ship.

This cruise we were entertained by one of the headwaiters telling us about his introduction to his foreign travel to the US. He landed in Napa, where he was able to spend an internship in one of the wineries. From a conservative Bavarian background, his description of his watching his first gay parade and deciding that San Francisco was not for him had us rolling with laughter! He currently has property in Thailand, which is home away from home. Having lived within the same 50 mile radius for the last 50 years makes John appreciate the international flavor of this headwaiter’s life.

This afternoon, we had an interesting talk with a member of the staff you would not necessarily consider, the ball room dance instructor. He began his life as a dance instructor, took a career deviation after realizing dance would not pay the bills, and returned to teaching dance after retirement. He and his wife take up to three cruises a year courtesy of the cruise lines. Not a bad gig.

Everyone has a story to tell, and we’ve learned a lot from the great people who share our ship and make sure our needs are met each day!

Yvonne & John





Blue Water Blogging Day 13 – Lessons from Sea Life

5 12 2011

Blue Water Blogging Day 13 – Lessons from Sea Life
Monday, 12/5/11

Hi all –

Tomorrow morning our ship pulls into Ft. Lauderdale and we spend the long day heading across the country, home again. The last day is always a bit bittersweet – saying goodbye to friends made aboard the ship, both in passengers and crew. Knowing that we’ll soon be cooking for ourselves again, and no one is going to magically make up the bed or straighten the bathroom for us!

Time at sea can be otherworldly – time out of mind and out of our daily routines to both unwind and become inspired. On this trip, we lost track of some of the ‘markers’ of the season at home. Thanksgiving Day was celebrated on the ship, but still kind of came and went without the usual fanfare of parade and football games on TV and large-meal-induced comas that made naptime seem like such a great idea. Saturday night, the ship elves decorated the place for the holidays, and now garland and trees and wreaths remind us we’re going home to the Christmas season. Still, it feels like a chunk of time was spent in another zone completely.

With this philosophical bend in mind, here are some reflections on lessons learned at sea!

>>> Talk to people and hear their stories. Interesting ideas, lives and expressions abound out there, so enjoy them! In some cases, it’s their past. Or their present. Or even their futures. Listening is an underused skill these days and we miss so much by not using it more often.

>>> Nothing is as vague as a land mass. As the fingers dance over the keyboard right now, Haiti passes on our starboard side. From a distance, as for most places, it looks like an amorphous stretch of land. But there are big thunderclouds building up, high mountains obscured by shadows, and green landscape and browner dry patches dipping down valleys to the sea. Clearly there’s a story here too. Just like people, places have things to share.

>>> Listen to nature. Whether it’s the screech of the birds or the sound of pounding waves or the different smells of different seas, there’s a place for everything and it pays to read those little details into the big picture. Booby birds earned their name because they landed on ships and sailors used to knock them on the head and eat them. But they have also learned that a ship’s passage gets the fish and squid excited. The fish leap and become dinner. Squids rise to the surface and roil en masse, an easy target. Those birds aren’t so dumb after all! And they fly at least twice as fast as our ship’s 25 mph too!

>>> Pay attention to the sea, as it changes constantly. One minute the waves are slight and the ship seems to glide. In the next, whitecaps appear, colors alter, and the ride is completely different. Waves crashing against the bow carry salt spray decks above. The wind can be bracing or mild. You can never take it for granted.

Counting down now, which is hard to do! Soon we’ll be passing the Keys on our way to Ft. Lauderdale and another wonderful adventure will, sadly, be over. But now we get to plan and dream about the next one…..

Yvonne & John





Blue Water Blogging Day 11 – Aruba

4 12 2011

Blue Water Blogging Day 11 – Oranjestad, Aruba
Saturday, 12/3/11

Hi all –

Our last port of the trip, Aruba! We had been here before, six years ago and just months after a hurricane. Trees were stripped of leaves, streets were quiet, and the beaches were clean of debris. On that cruise, our much smaller ship had docked right next to the original part of the city of Oranjestad, and we were looking forward to visiting those colorful buildings and old streets again.

Today, though, the large cruise ships dock – where else – next to the industrial container port. Around the dock, a new city of shops and restaurants has sprung up. We never could figure out where the old city was, and with just a very few hours in port and a day of low clouds and threatening rain, we weren’t inclined to explore too far afield.

Aruba was founded before the year 1000 by South American Indians who were escaping enslavement in their country of origin, what would be Venezuela on a modern day map. These hunter-gatherer-fishermen created an advanced socio-political system and a stable peaceful culture. Physically, they were imposingly tall, a trait that worked to their disadvantage when other nations decided to come calling.

Five hundred years later, the Spanish arrived and captured these Caiquetio Indians, transporting them around the Caribbean to be slaves in mines and on plantations to take advantage of their ‘giant’ physical height and strength. Other than that, they left the island and its Indians pretty much alone. Others, though, found its protected bays and mooring opportunities to be very useful, and today the ruins of castles built by pirates and buccaneers remain for exploration.

In 1639, Aruba was taken over by the Netherlands, which governed it for the next two hundred years, and then the island was passed to the British during the Napoleonic Wars. It was subsequently passed back to the Dutch and has remained as a dependent nation by choice under that governance ever since. Talk about being handed around the family!

During early unsettled times, the island was thought to be pretty much useless, with no natural resources or treasures to plunder and farming opportunities too poor for cultivation. It was thought to be primarily a good source of slaves. However, many different peoples settled here over the centuries for different reasons and formed the mixture of races, cultures and languages that compose the country today. An interesting polyglot language remains as a legacy of this melting pot, called Papiamento, a mixture of Portuguese, English, Spanish, Dutch, African and Indian. It is believed that the last true native Caiquetios died in the late 1800’s.

Modern prosperity in its own right came for the island in the form of a 19th century gold rush, and when that was mined out, aloe became a productive crop. At one point, Aruba was the number one producer of aloe for the world. Then a black gold rush of oil transfer and refineries arrived in the early 20th century. That has continued and grown in the 21th century, and coupled with a robust tourism industry, keeps Aruba very prosperous today. The island is part of the Netherland Antilles, which includes Bonaire and Curacao, together called the ABC islands. Today Aruba is known as the “Las Vegas of the Caribbean” – which could be a blessing or a curse, depending on your point of view!

From a tourist perspective, this island country is known for its pristine beaches that encircle its 74 square miles, its reefs of underwater creatures to be enjoyed in snorkeling and diving expeditions, and its nightlife. Shopping for jewelry is a typical cruiser pastime here, and many of the specialty shops within easy walking distance of the cruise pier provide ‘special’ discounts to ship passengers.

Wildlife of the animal form on land includes wild donkeys (a remnant of the gold rush and aloe farming), ostriches and iguanas. Alas, though, the iguanas that used to enjoy sunning on the rocks of the breakwaters along the harbor area have disappeared, no doubt due to the commercial development and loss of habitat nearby.

What strikes you as you look across the island, though, is how flat it is! The interior is desert, and with only three minor hills to break the horizon, it’s hard to tell where the land ends and the sea again begins! If you love shopping, hanging out on great beaches, or enjoying teeming colorful fishes underwater, though, Aruba is a great place to visit!

Yvonne & John





Blue Water Blog Day 10 Cartagena

3 12 2011

Blue Water Blogging Day 10 – Cartagena Columbia
Friday, 12/2/11

Hi everyone,

We arrived to a hot and humid day in Cartagena, Columbia. With almost 2 million people, the city has an imposing skyline from the water. Since the tourist infrastructure is not highly developed, we arrived at the container port and our view of the city was over containers and container ships. We didn’t realize until we sailed out in the evening how huge the bahia (bay) is, as the deep water channel carries you quite a distance before you reach the city.

Our tour was arranged through the cruise line. With our visions of the violent past in Columbia, we were not anxious to strike out on our own. Later in the evening we were speaking with the sommelier who stayed a night in the Old City of Cartagena and felt perfectly safe. Service in either the military or police force is mandatory for all young Columbians, so police are plentiful. At least in the city, police are not as heavily armed as in most Latin American countries. There is something intimidating about police or soldiers in armored vests carrying automatic weapons. The younger conscripts are not allowed to carry a side arm and from what we saw, are largely ignored by the populace.

The ship’s stay in Cartagena was a short one. We arrived at 8 am and were scheduled to leave at 2 pm. We can say that our few hours in Cartagena was the longest month of our lives! The city is lively and growing; the people were friendly and proud of their city. English was widely spoken in the tourist areas.

Our first stop was the Fort of San Felipe, which successfully defended the city for hundreds of years. It is the most impressive work of Spanish military engineering in South America and well worth the stop for fort freaks like us. While the Spanish get credit for the engineering, a Dutch engineer actually collaborated in the fort’s design. The hundreds of years of evolution developed a massive structure, securely protecting the city from sea attack.

The fort is a major attraction for both tourists and the local populace. It is a stop on the school tours. As a major attraction, it has a wall of vendors you must penetrate to get to the fort. Somehow a small number of vendors are allowed into the fort. The most colorful is a gentleman who taught himself to play the bugle. Dressed in period military gear, he entertains visitors. The tour guides make sure you do not miss him. We, like too few, rewarded his ingenuity and cheerfulness with a buck. It just struck us that John missed filming him for you. If you go, be sure to get him on video. Let’s make him a YouTube star.

Old City Cartagena is a UNESCO world heritage site and is being renovated and gentrifying with shops, restaurants and residential dwellings. The streets are alive with street vendors and entertainers. We would recommend carrying some small bills of dollars to donate to entertainers and to buy water without flashing a lot of cash. Bring your camera, because the Old City is every bit as colorful as Old San Juan, PR.

Being both Catholic and Spanish, South America did not miss the Spanish Inquisition. Our third stop was the Palacio de la Inquisition, home of the torture chambers. The techniques were described in much too graphic detail. Leave it said they were not a fun bunch and if someone dropped your name anonymously into the guest list, you were lucky if you died in prison before being ‘examined’.

The San Pedro Claver Sanctuary, a former convent, has a beautiful garden courtyard in the center of a two story building with internal passages reminiscent of old Europe. It probably missed becoming a hotel or office building because it is still adjacent to Cartagena’s Cathedral. The Cathedral is a stop on most tours and we are debating if is still consecrated since the altar was open for picture taking and exploration. A former bishop is buried in the altar and is a source of pilgrimages as well.

Our first shopping stop was in Las Bovedas, the former dungeons, where in true Latin American custom, we were guided into the tour guide’s favorite store. Yvonne found a great bag with Indian design. While we could and should have bartered, the price was reasonable by our standards. We were ‘referred’ to a low overhead t-shirt vendor where we purchased our obligatory Columbia t-shirt. Been there, did that, have the t-shirt.

It has been our experience that the bus drivers on tours are an incredibly skilled group. They can maneuver narrow streets with less than inches to spare on each side and ours extricated the bus from a impossibly tight spot. Judging from the spontaneous and unanimous cheers, the entire bus was impressed.

The last shopping stop of the tour was the ‘shopping center’. The tour was escorted into the jewelry store and made a universal u-turn. Our highlight was a sloth picture for Yvonne and John ($2 each) and a Columbian beer ($3). US Dollars are universally accepted and there must not be law requiring vendors to hold dollars since we also got dollars in change. Some countries hoard exchange dollars by requiring shops to give change in the local currency.

The beaches in Columbia are public and lastly we got a tour of the city including the beaches. Families and tourists were enjoying a day at the beach. Grass thatched restaurants and bars were available but not crowded cheek to jowl like they would be in the States. In Costa Rica and Panama, the tour guides are professionally trained and promote the country. While our guide in Cartagena had a lot of facts, the heat, the traffic, the constant press of vendors and the humidity made the stop our least favorite one on this trip.

Like many of the countries in Latin America and the Caribbean, there is “no” welfare system and “no” unemployment. The result of this policy is an overwhelming assault of vendors trying to sell you something at every tourist stop. Things like scarves, jewelry, hats, t-shirts and souvenirs that are homemade are constant. There is so much poverty that the impressions that stay with you are this desperate attempt to make a sale. The lasting images that stayed with us are the poverty amid the abundance.
We’re sure that there would be good adventures to experience here but the economic climate and the humidity does not entice us to return. Cartagena – been there, done that, and got the t-shirt!

Yvonne & John





Blue Water Blogging Day 9 – Panama Canal

3 12 2011

Blue Water Blogging Day 9 – Panama Canal

Whatever you’ve heard about the Panama Canal, whatever books you’ve read or descriptions you’ve been given, it can’t compare to being there! After Panama City yesterday, our ship moved to an anchorage with a few dozen other vessels waiting for our passage today.

And what an early day it was! The anchors were hoisted at 5 am in pitch darkness and we were underway, moving towards the channel markers that lead to the first locks. It is eerie at night – ships at anchor all lit up with no place yet to go, the string of red buoys that guide us forward, the flash of the pilot boats coming up to drop off the three pilots we need to transverse the canal.

There are over 300 pilots for the Canal. They take complete control of all vessels – large or small – as they move through the upcoming 50 miles from bay to bay. In a country where the minimum wage is $400 monthly, $650 a month in income allows you to buy a car, and $2K a month is a teacher’s pay (with a Bachelor’s degree), pilots make – brace yourself – $25K – A MONTH! But when you see what they do, you understand that 10 years of sailing experience and at least a year of specific Canal training don’t seem like nearly enough!

The Miraflores Locks are the first set of two steps up to the eventual float across Gatun Lake at 85 feet above sea level. The tides on the Pacific side can vary up to 20 feet, so on some days and at some times, the rise is more than others. The first lock, the largest rise, and the second together are approximately 55’. A short float across Miraflores Lake takes us to the third lock on the Pacific Side, Pedro Miguel Locks and another 30’.

The width of the lock is 110’; our Coral Princess
http://www.princess.com/learn/ships/co/index.html
, which was designed specifically for use in the Canal, is 106’. This means that we get a whopping 2’ on either side as space for forgiveness! The length of the lock allows a ship of 965’ – our ship, 964.5’. Three inches of room at either end – no biggie!!! That size of 106’ by 964.5’ with a draw of about 40’ (depth in the water) is considered the maximum size for the canal – called ‘panamax’. A new single set of locks is being built at either end of the Canal to handle larger ships – 1200’ long, 160’ wide and at least 10’ of deeper draft. Those are due to be completed in 2014, in time for the centennial of the Canal, and they will change both the number of cruise ships that can cross in the Canal and the size of ‘post-panamax’ commercial vessels that will carry goods across.

The design of the locks is quite ingenious! A ship enters the lowest lock and the lock doors are closed behind the ship. Water from the lock above is fed using gravity into the lower lock and the ship rises, while the water level in the lock ahead lowers and equalizes with levels of the two locks. Then the gates ahead open and the ship sails forward for the next rise. A ship flushes 52 MILLION gallons of water out from the rainfall in the central rainforest to the Pacific and Caribbean in ONE crossing! Since they get over 300 inches of rain a year here though, it gets replenished fairly quickly!

To keep us centered in the lock, eight ‘mules’ (locomotive tugs on tracks alongside) attach and keep a tight rein on the ship. Two guys in a rowboat row out to the huge ship as is approaches the channel and grab the lines to attach to the mules – a process that dates back to when the Canal was first operated and one that they have not found a way to improve. Sometimes the tried and true ways are best!

After the bustle of the locks, the transverse of the Canal itself is very quiet! We move under the Bridge of the Americas, which connects a highway that starts in Canada all the way through North and South America, except for brief ferry ride through a swamp in Panama, to Argentina. Then we cross under the Centennial Bridge, built as promised by a previous president of Panama but with no real roads connecting it to anything! The height of those bridge pylons marks the highest point of land that needed to be excavated at this end of the Canal.

We then enter the 9-mile Culebra Cut, the point of greatest excavation for the Canal. Consider this: The amount of ‘spoil’ that was removed for the Cut alone is mind-boggling – over 100 MILLION cubic yards – that’s 100 million ‘chunks’ 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet! To provide perspective, Scientific American tried to help readers visualize how much this was by having them imagine a canal from coast to coast in a flat US – the amount of digging required for it to be 55 feet’ wide and 10’ deep is the same as what was moved to build the Panama Canal! Excavation happened almost around the clock from 1906 to 1914, with 6000 men working on it at any one time. Over 27,000 men died in creating this manmade wonder.

The Culebra Cut was the site of numerous rock and mudslides that often completely filled in the length already dug. Trains ran constantly to move the dirt from the cut to the various dumping areas, filling in breakwaters or spaces between islands or building the Gatun Dam on the Caribbean end. Even today, slides still happen regularly, and while much smaller, still require around the clock care and repairs each day. Coupled with the deepening and expansion of the width of the Canal, the work never ends, including blasting with dynamite to loosen the rock underwater or at the banks (done when ships are not close by!)

After leaving the Culebra Cut, we pass the inflow of the Chagres River, which was the body of water dammed and used to create the flood that is today’s Gatun Lake, the central passage of the canal. During particularly rainy days, the canal may have to be closed because the pressure of water rushing in will shove ships aground on the opposite bank. If the outflow of water for ships’ passages each day (at least 40 times 52,000,000 gallons – you can do the math!) is not enough to compensate for the rain inflow, there are spillway dams at each end – Gatun Dam on the Caribbean and another at Miraflores Locks that produces hydroelectric power for Panama City.

The lake itself is incredibly peaceful. The lush rainforest, which is protected and pretty much as wild as it was when people tried to cross this isthmus on foot, hugs the waterline. Birds call, and occasionally we can hear howler monkeys screech too! It is gorgeous, lulling in its peace and its beauty. And hot and humid too! We encountered a particularly clear day, and we had no rain at all to disturb our passage.

Did you know that the Canal actually runs northwest to southeast? Most people initially think they are going west to east, because we’re moving from the Pacific to the Caribbean, the Isthmus of Panama actually runs east-west, and the Canal therefore runs north-south. This land bridge was formed from volcanic activity, and in fact, there are active volcanoes still in this country, along with high mountains with year-round cool weather. Hard to imagine needing jackets someplace else in the country when we’re dripping wet!

Back to our passage. Because the Canal is so narrow in many places, ships are grouped together in flotillas and timed so that they can pass each other, north bound for us and southbound for those we pass, at wider points in channels across Gatun Lake. Our northbound flotilla contained 15 ships; southbound had 17. This made for some interesting sightseeing of vessels carrying just about anything you can imagine and from so many different registries around the world.

In what seemed like a very short time, we were near the Gatun Locks, a series of three steps down (called ‘downlocking’) on the Caribbean side. As luck would have it, there was another cruise ship from the UK waiting for these locks, and we downlocked together through the three steps! It gave us a chance to learn where the passengers on the other ship were from and where they were heading as we yelled across the center island separating the locks. It also gave us a real appreciation for how much a ship dropped in a lock as the dining room windows that were probably on deck 7 of the other ship disappeared from view at each dip! In fact, four decks of windows disappeared!

And perhaps the most intriguing view was looking back in the adjacent lock as we were entering the final drop. A huge cargo ship and its two attendant tugs were entering the first lock, and they were above eye level for us on deck 10 of our ship! It seemed like they were floating in air! Then they disappeared from view as the water level dropped, only to appear again in the next lock, again suspended above us.

The third and last lock level dropped, and we had moved down 85’ from Gatun Lake to the Caribbean. Strange, but the sea actually smelled different – different from the Pacific side and different from the Lake. Our crossing, which was reserved by Princess as much as a year in advance, was completed in about 12 hours. We required four pilots, two on the bridge at all times and one on the stern. One needed to be replaced as he had been working for one crossing already before he came on board with us on the Panama City side and was therefore at the end of his 16-hour shift. The total fee, including $134 cost per filled passenger berth and $108 per empty one and for each set of ‘extra’ equipment and labor was over $400,000.

The Caribbean welcomed us with choppy seas and lots of wind, but the gusts felt wonderful after the stillness in the Canal. As we’re so close to the equator, day and night are each about 12 hours long and vary little throughout the year. Dusk falls very quickly at this latitude and dawn comes just as fast. As the sun sets in the blue Caribbean, we think back on a wonderful passage through the Panama Canal – and yes, we’re ready to do it again!








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